Review: Goin' Coastal

Seafood lovers take heed to the hometown treasure we have at on Main Street in Canton. Besides the new menu, which should be enough to prompt you to visit, there are some good vibes that one can pick up on from the moment you walk through the door.

The observation kitchen, for me, is always a gratifying aspect of any restaurant design—symbolically welcoming me into “the house” where all the fun happens. The chalkboards positioned at both ends of the main brick wall heralds the sustainable fish offerings for the day. It sends the message that the selection changes, perhaps, daily and that my dinner has a great chance of being as fresh as possible.

On the evening of my visit, the selections were: Gulf Oysters (six for $6 and 12 for $12), Cod ($21), Rainbow Trout ($21), Trigger Fish ($24), and Swordfish ($25). Your fish can be prepared in the “classic Coastal” method, a pan sauté or blackened or baked with vegetables.

To begin my walk around the new menu, I chose the Coastal House Salad with Honey Vinaigrette dressing ($6)—a lovely mix of baby salad greens from another local supplier, Sweetwater Growers, the hydroponics farm in Canton. It was a fresh, crisp mix of brassicas, Mizuna, Arugula and Red Mustard baby greens, each having a distinctive taste and nicely offset with the sweet honey and tart dressing.

I was very pleased with my selection of the filet of Rainbow Trout ($21), prepared in the classic Coastal method. This straightforward method produces a “no-fuss” dish where the flavor of the fish shines through, unadulterated and simple—just the way I like it.

A nice feature of the new menu is the option to add a little bite of some other treasure from the sea to the main entrée. For example, I had the chance to add shrimp, or scallops or a jumbo lump crab cake. Since I am secretly on the hunt for the crab cake most like the ones I remember eating as a child, I chose the crab cake ($8). This morsel was nicely pan fried with no more than the necessary filling to flavor and hold the cake together. Again, a triumph of simplicity, freshness and pure taste.

My meal was complimented with a glass of Prinz Von Hessen Riesling 2009 ($9). I really liked this one. It was pale yellow in color, juicy and clear with hints of apple, citrus, grapefruit and a little peach. It presented a lightly residual sweetness that was not at all cloying.

The service was impeccable, prompt and friendly. My server was well informed and eager to answer all of my questions. I was left with the impression that the staff takes great pride in what they offer their customers and thoroughly enjoy providing a unique product that is delicious and good for the environment.

For seafood lovers, the rest of the menu is a class act. Remember, though that the season and availability will dictate what goes up on the chalkboard, and you can relax in knowing that the fish being offered for your dining pleasure has been harvested by sustainable methods; it’s their mission.